I’d be gutted if someone nicked my bike. Not because it’s worth much, but just because I love it and I’ve also spent the time respraying it and generally getting it the way I want it. It may not be perfect, but it’s mine and that’s why I don’t want to lose it.
So given that assumption, I did a bit of research before buying a new lock. Prior to this I was using a fairly heavy-duty combination lock. But then I saw a worrying demo on YouTube about how easy it was to pick one of these bad boys. Although the one I was using wasn’t as flimsy as the one in the demo.
The more I read, the more confused i became because it seems that pretty much every lock can be removed by a thief detrmined enough to do it. This means that you have to use a combination of a good lock and a careful application of the way it is attached to your bike.
There are a couple of principles it seems when it comes to locking your bike:
1. Some locks are easier to crack than others. But no locks are completely thief-proof. It seems that in order of difficulty, they go something like this:
Combination locks
Woven steel cable
Crappy D-Locks
Heavy duty chains
Decent D-Locks or U-Locks – i think these are the same thing, just a slightly different visual analogy.
Because the D-Locks/U-Locks also vary enormously and a cheap one could be less effective that a decent chain. A really cheap one can just be bent using a steel bar, so you need to spend a bit of money getting one that can’t. But, as I point out below, there is a tool that they can use to remove a decent D Lock, too.
2. From the thief’s perspective, the easier pickings are going to be the ones to go for: so the more heavy-duty the lock, the longer it will take to break it and therefore the riskier it is to try and do so (stand around long enough with a hacksaw and your chances of getting seen/caught rise).
3. The way the lock is attached to the bike can hinder the persistent thief. If you use a U/D-lock, then the way they crack this is by putting a kind of pneumatic pump between the two sides of the “U/D”. So if you make sure that there is no real gap for them to get the machine in there then this will be something else that puts them off. By this I mean, instead of just putting the lock over the crossbar and over some railings, put it through the bottom bracket so there is less room inside the U/D.
4. Use more than one lock. Again, it’s just more of a pain in the arse for the bike thief and chances are they will pass your one by to go for an easier prey.
Apparently police say spend 10-20% of the value of your bike on a lock. But I think that’s just stoopid. How would that have any effect on preventing your bike from getting nicked? From what I have read thieves are less likely to nick really expensive bikes because they are harder to sell. Imagine some teenage scrote trying to convince someone that the £5,000 carbon tri-bike that they are offering for resale is genuinely an unwanted Christmas present? Much easier to flog a £200 bike for £30 and be done with it.
I ended up going for a pretty expensive lock. It was a Kryptonite New York 3000D which I bought from Wiggle for about £60. Although I think you can get it cheaper elsewhere I subsequently discovered.
When it arrived I was a bit shocked at how heavy it was. I nearly sent it back, but actually, once I’d put it in my bag I couldnt really notice the weight. It looks the dogs in bright yellow and black and I’m stupidly reassured imagining that somehow it’s what everyone uses in New York. I also have a cable that hooks around the front wheel back to the lock. It’s not the best thing and probably I should just get another very small D-lock for the front wheel and frame. But all-in-all it feels fairly solid and so far I still own my bike.

